Morgenlandfahrt - Still waiting for the shipof noralbin
Created on 08-05-09
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The Black Sea! We had seen it glittering in the sunlight out of the last watergate before Constanta. But when we were unloaded, the dream of a bath in the ocean was destroyed by outer circumstances - a gigantic industrial park extended around us. As farewell captain Dan offered Albin a job as sailorman if his studies wouldn't go well in future, but Nora didn't brim over with enthusiasm.
We left Constanta at walking speed in direction of Bulgaria by a romanian pers train honking all the time. Its final destination was Mangalia, 10 km before the border. From here on we wanted to walk along the coastline. Having just started leaving Mangalia along the street, a car driver felt so sorry for us, that he took us against our will to a small village called Vama Veche, where "all the rock people like you go". Vama Veche. We had heard that name a few times before whispered among young Romanians. Now it was our destiny to find out the secret of Vama Veche (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcNdgP3Gi_I).
Having reached the village, we found an almost empty beach - how should we know that three days later there would be hundreds of tents, thousands of people, bars, concerts and fireplaces?

20 years ago Vama Veche had been an unknown fishing village. Alternative young Romanians searching for a place out of civilisation came here around the 1st of May to enjoy life. Young bands had concerts directly on the beach and people came together dancing around fireplaces, singing, swimming, relaxing and smoking.

With more and more people coming there over the years it became increasingly commercial. But still most people don't pay entrance for concerts - they dance outside the fences. We enjoyed the atmosphere of Vama Veche for 4 days and met many interesting people there: Cri and Bogdan (inhabitants of the first tent on the beach), the members of the band The Eloizes (band of Dan's son Narcis, http://www.myspace.com/eloizero), Eliza, Markus, Henning... and we even were on Romanian TV (http://www.realitatea.net/video_759927_romanii-au-de-ales-intre-mamaia-si-vama-veche--de-ziua-muncii-_509266.html).

Drunk and happy we left Vama Veche hitchhiking to Varna, Bulgaria. This time we really wanted to walk along the coast. And despite of many obstacles (the mysterious bus nr. 17 in Varna, people telling us it's impossible to go this way and instead sending us to the nearest tourist- beach, soldiers throwing us out of paradise declaring the coastline we wanted to sleep at as military zone, no drinking water because of wracked campgrounds) we made it and had 4
wonderful days feeling like Robinson and Friday (but who is who?). We hiked through rocky coast, cliff line and lonely sandy beaches, found footpathes through jungle-like forest as well as wasteland and built up our tent at Bulgarias' most romantic places.

Having arrived in Bjala we thought we had to be in Burgas soon, not knowing that our ferry to Russia would be delayed. Hitchiking there, we recognized Bjala had been the right place to leave the coast. A never-ending skyline of hotels for German tourists blocked the view to the sea for miles.
The shock came in Burgas. In the thought of booking the ferry for saturday, we phoned Intershipping but instead of the exact departure we were told that we have to wait for 4 more days.






The Black Sea! We had seen it glittering in the sunlight out of the last watergate before Constanta. But when we were unloaded, the dream of a bath in the ocean was destroyed by outer circumstances - a gigantic industrial park extended around us. As farewell captain Dan offered Albin a job as sailorman if his studies wouldn't go well in future, but Nora didn't brim over with enthusiasm.
We left Constanta at walking speed in direction of Bulgaria by a romanian pers train honking all the time. Its final destination was Mangalia, 10 km before the border. From here on we wanted to walk along the coastline. Having just started leaving Mangalia along the street, a car driver felt so sorry for us, that he took us against our will to a small village called Vama Veche, where "all the rock people like you go". Vama Veche. We had heard that name a few times before whispered among young Romanians. Now it was our destiny to find out the secret of Vama Veche (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcNdgP3Gi_I).
Having reached the village, we found an almost empty beach - how should we know that three days later there would be hundreds of tents, thousands of people, bars, concerts and fireplaces?
20 years ago Vama Veche had been an unknown fishing village. Alternative young Romanians searching for a place out of civilisation came here around the 1st of May to enjoy life. Young bands had concerts directly on the beach and people came together dancing around fireplaces, singing, swimming, relaxing and smoking.
With more and more people coming there over the years it became increasingly commercial. But still most people don't pay entrance for concerts - they dance outside the fences. We enjoyed the atmosphere of Vama Veche for 4 days and met many interesting people there: Cri and Bogdan (inhabitants of the first tent on the beach), the members of the band The Eloizes (band of Dan's son Narcis, http://www.myspace.com/eloizero), Eliza, Markus, Henning... and we even were on Romanian TV (http://www.realitatea.net/video_759927_romanii-au-de-ales-intre-mamaia-si-vama-veche--de-ziua-muncii-_509266.html).
Drunk and happy we left Vama Veche hitchhiking to Varna, Bulgaria. This time we really wanted to walk along the coast. And despite of many obstacles (the mysterious bus nr. 17 in Varna, people telling us it's impossible to go this way and instead sending us to the nearest tourist- beach, soldiers throwing us out of paradise declaring the coastline we wanted to sleep at as military zone, no drinking water because of wracked campgrounds) we made it and had 4
Having arrived in Bjala we thought we had to be in Burgas soon, not knowing that our ferry to Russia would be delayed. Hitchiking there, we recognized Bjala had been the right place to leave the coast. A never-ending skyline of hotels for German tourists blocked the view to the sea for miles.
The shock came in Burgas. In the thought of booking the ferry for saturday, we phoned Intershipping but instead of the exact departure we were told that we have to wait for 4 more days.
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